February 2020 – Page 3 – Our Cote d’Ivoire Abidjan East and Bamako, Mali Mission

Up on our Abidjan Rooftop

We flew back to Abidjan this afternoon to be there for an important meeting tomorrow with Elder Nash and the missionaries. This evening I went up on the roof of our apartment building to take a look around. Here’s what you can see from up there.

Our apartment complex has 2 buildings. This is the one behind us where the Sisters live:

Did you notice all the satellite dishes lined up in a row? Usually there is laundry hanging to dry on the clothes lines.

These are our neighbors to the west of our building. Our room is right above this compound. We wake every morning to roosters, crying children and the sounds of life in a typical compound.

This is the street we live on, also looking west. The compound is to the left. You can see a small shack by the green water containers. People come here each day to collect water. Garbage is tossed there too. Our apartment has a garbage dumpster we can use.

Across the street to the north is this empty lot and another apartment building (on the left) where laundry is always drying in the sun. The crane you see in the center is at the temple site.

Here you can see the stake center to the left of the brown building and the temple on the right.

When you look to the east, you see this very progressive neighborhood. This is one of the nicest parts of Abidjan.

Looking southeast you can see a swimming pool and tennis court. Nice.

Our rooftop:

There’s a little room for a guard at night.

This is our lovely Abidjan neighborhood. It’s always nice to be here.

This evening we went out to dinner to celebrate our daughter’s 26th birthday. We had delicious crepes at the restaurant Paul. Happy Birthday to Claire!!

Pioneer Oral Histories at the Chicken Farm

Matt Heiss is responsible for gathering the history of the church in Africa and many other parts of the world. What a treat it has been to have him and Norbert Ounleu with us this weekend in Bamako. He has been hearing about this place–now he has experienced this place.

Here’s an interesting article Matt wrote about documenting this world-wide church:

https://rsc.byu.edu/preserving-history-latter-day-saints/doing-impossible-documenting-worldwide-church

In the end of this article, he quotes former church historian Leonard Arrington, who many years ago envisioned the growth of the church and said: “As the Church becomes more international, it will become increasingly important to write the history of Latter-day Saints in their homelands. By reconstructing these people’s lives, we give their heirs a sense of their LDS heritage as well as provide real models for their own lives, models with whom they can identify.” He said further, “When history comes from the grassroots, from where the people live and worship, the individual can identify personally with the general Church experience.”

Of the hundreds and hundreds of interviews Matt has conducted all over the world, I asked if he’d ever conducted one under a mango tree. This was a first.

Today at the chicken farm, we interviewed Dramane Bagayoko, Adama Coulibaly, Sibiri Ouattara and Younoussa Coulibaly.

As the breezes blew around us, we were showered with bits and pieces from the old blossoms of the mango tree.

2020-2-17 Chicken Farm Interviews, Dramane (8) — Dramane Bagayoko

2020-2-17 Interview Adama Coulibaly (1) — Norbert Ounleu

Adama’s interview was conducted in Bambara and Djoula (a local language from the Ivory Coast similar to Bambara). You can get a feel for these languages here:

2020-2-17 Interview Adama Coulibaly (5) — Adama Coulibaly

2020-2-17 Interview Sibiri Ouattara (1) — Sibiri Ouattara

I listened to Adama and Sibiri’s interviews, amazed that in this remote place, so far from the rest of the world we know, men like this exist–men who have received a spiritual witness of the truth of the Book of Mormon record and who consider it a gift from God to know about the restored gospel of Jesus Christ. Their testimonies are sacred to them.

Matt and Elder Lewis visited with Dramane and Younoussa. They came away with the same feelings of awe and respect for these pioneers.

2020-2-17 Interview Younoussa Coulibaly (1) — Younoussa Coulibaly

Every day here is a gift. I am learning to see things more clearly. I am learning to distinguish more carefully between wants and needs. I am learning to appreciate my own testimony of Christ’s restored church more completely.

I love this photograph. It speaks to my heart. I hope I always remember this day under the mango trees.

This afternoon we headed to the Bamako Airport and we flew to Abidjan, where we bid farewell to these dear friends. We’ll continue the work of gathering here–gathering the seekers, and gathering their stories.

Meeting Places in Mountougoula

A few miles down the dirt road from the chicken farm is this place where we meet for church on Sundays. Remember last time how John had to climb over the gate to unlock it from the inside? Well, someone else figured that out too and this last week they broke in and stole 6 metal doors from this small compound.

Metal doors can be sold. None of our chairs or the table were taken.

The thieves also took all of our books and manuals. They took about 15-20 copies of the Book of Mormon, all of our new Come Follow Me manuals, about 15 hymn books, lots of other books and pamphlets. This is all they left:

I hope they enjoy them and help get them into the hands of people who will read and learn from them. Dra had a call from the police while we were at the farm today. They have a suspect.

Here are the views from the top of our meeting place:

Here is where we hold our sacrament meetings:

We also visited this new compound. A family is living here now, but they would be willing to rent the place and relocate. These pictures will give you a nice idea of everyday life in a Malian home.

This is the kitchen, in a separate building outside:

The bathroom is down this passage way and there is a well for water outside the compound.

It was a very nice place to consider. We’ll have to see what happens here.

Visiting the Chicken Farm

This morning we drove the 1.5 hours to the chicken farm in Mountougoula. We wanted Matt and Norbert to see the place where many of our first members met and the place where Elder Bednar visited in May of 2017. It was in this building that 100s of people gathered to welcome him.

And here is what’s left of the baptismal font where sacred ordinances were performed. Termites are feasting on it now.

There are 3 buildings like this here. The middle one is full of young hens and older hens right now. The young hens were recently moved from this first building which is now being prepared for a new batch of young chicks.

You can tell by their cackling, that these are happy chickens!

Temperatures here rise high. Today is was over 100 degrees outside, but these buildings stay relatively cool. When it gets really hot, the fans are turned on to cool the hens.

The chicken poop is collected and sold to farmers in the area for their fields.

All of the corn meal and feed is ground and prepared here on site. The corn is locally grown.

Dramane Bagayoko manages the chicken farm. He lives here with with his wife, Mariam Ballo and their 3 children.

We had a little time before our first interviews began with the members here, so Dramane took us to visit a new place they are looking at to hold church meetings now. In the beginning, the meetings were held here at the farm, then they moved to a rented unfinished compound where we meet now. Come see these 2 places in the next post.

Pioneer Oral Histories in Bamako Continue

We had an excellent Sabbath day in Bamako. Many friends came to church. The Elders are busy. Both Matt Heiss and Norbert Ounleu spoke today, sharing experiences about the growing church in Africa and how to find happiness by doing the simple things.

After church, the oral history interviews continued. Today we visited with Christ Anselme, who has been serving as our Branch President in Bamako.

2020-2-16 Interview Christ Anselme (1) — Norbert Ounleu with Christ Anselme

Christ and his finance, Merveille.

We also met with the Rose and Ibrahima Ouattara family.

2020-2-16 Interview Rose Albert & Ibrahim Watara Family (6) — The Rose and Ibrahim Ouattara Family

When Matt asked who wanted to serve a mission, this happened:

Our last interview today was with Francois Cissoko, who was sustained today as the 2nd counselor in our Bamako Branch Presidency.

2020-2-16 Interview Francois Cissoko (7) — Matt Heiss interviewing Francois Cissoko with John Lewis and Norbert Ounleu

2020-2-16 Interview Francois Cissoko (10) — Francois Cissoko

Everyone has a unique and wonderful story to tell of how they came to find the church, how they learned the teachings of Jesus Christ, and how they were converted to the truths found here. I wish every member everywhere could learn from these pioneers. Their stories are sweet and dear and their conversions are amazing.

Sometimes good people find reason to doubt the doctrine or the history of our church. My testimony is strengthened every time I hear the testimony of another bearing witness of how the Spirit of God has been involved in the details of their lives and those details always lead them to Jesus Christ and to His restored gospel. This is His plan for us, no matter where we live or no matter what our own life plans may be.

We feel like we have a front row seat as the church is established here in Mali. There were big important things that happened to prepare this place for the gospel. But equally, perhaps even more important are the hearts of individuals who have been led and guided to the truths taught here. Many have been forsaken by their families for embracing Christianity. Some have lost their employment. Several of these friends aren’t sure where the next meal will come from. But they all share one thing: Faith in our Lord Jesus Christ and in his plan for us.

Being here is a gift. Listening to these conversion stories is a sweet experience. We enjoyed a meal with Matt and Norbert at our apartment this evening after a full day. We had good conversation and shared experiences and observations from our work here. We have a lot to learn from these good people. I hope we all return home changed by them.

Pioneer Oral Histories in Bamako

2020-2-14 Matt Heiss, Norbert Onleu Visit Bamako (6) — Norbert Ounleu and Frederick Mbaya

It has been a treat to sit in on the interviews of our Pioneers here in Mali. Last night and this afternoon the oral history work continued with Matt Heiss and Norbert Ounleu.

Each person here has had an important part to play in the unfolding of the work of the church in Mali. These interviews are conducted and recorded in French, English or Bambara. The words will be transcribed to English and will be added to the history of the Church in Africa.

2020-2-15 Interview Anounou Sissoko (2) — Matt Heiss and Anounou Sissoko

2020-2-15 Interview Nourou Sidibe (1) — Nourou Sidibe

2020-2-15 Interview Sekou Dembele (5) — John Lewis, Norbert Ounleu, Matt Heiss and Sekou Dembele

We also got to visit with Josue Togo today. He left before I was able to take a photo of him, but here he is the last time we visited with him a couple of weeks ago.

The more I learn about these dear friends, the more I love them. It’s an honor to be serving here.

Mr K’s Burgers

2020-2-15 Mr K's Burgers (2)

At the end of our short Bamako tour we tried a new place for lunch–we’d heard about Mr K’s Burgers from American friends who have eaten here and enjoyed it. They were right–the food was great!

2020-2-15 Mr K's Burgers (3)

2020-2-15 Mr K's Burgers (5)

2020-2-15 Mr K's Burgers

Delicious!!

2020-2-15 Mr K's Burgers (1)

The Artisan’s Market and Around the Grand Mosque of Bamako

Next on our tour of Bamako we drove through some of the crazy market areas surrounding the Artisan’s Market. The streets were busy and crowded with vendors of every kind. Motorcycles surround your car as you drive here and people flock on either side of every road with their wares for sale. It’s hard to take it all in.

We drove to the Artisan’s Market, then parked and went in. It was relatively peaceful there. We spent about an hour in the market and outside the market enjoying the sights. Many of our friends greeted us and Moussa became our tour guide. We told them we weren’t there to buy, but to look and show our visitors.

It was fun and interesting and again, a visual overload. The sights and smells and sounds are amazing. You can hear the metal workers and jewelers pounding silver on anvils. The wood workers are chiseling blocks of wood into animals and masks and figures. The leather workers are stretching skins and scraping them. We saw skins soaking in buckets to soften them for working into belts and wallets and shoes. We looked at the mud cloth and every kind of art. We walked through narrow alleys of spices and dried goods. I always think of the old city of Jerusalem in those parts–it looks and feels and smells the same.

We went out of the walled part of the Artisan’s Market into the streets and wandered through the crowds to the fabric areas and mazes of people and shops.

Then Moussa took us to the entrance of the Mosque, which was closed for cleaning during the time we were there. I’d never been around that back side of the market before. We saw women selling pottery, making brooms and selling spices and dried goods there too, along with pots, pans and kitchen wares.

I wish I knew what all of these things were used for.

Making brooms:

Stools and gourd spoons and bowls:

Cooking utensils:

Just finished lunch:

This pot was as big as the motorcycle next to it–big enough to hold an entire goat!

Making fans:

There were also lots of Muslim items for sale on the back side of the mosque–Arabic books and the Koran and the caps the men wear and the prayer beads. One thing after the next, crammed into tight spaces, all on the ground or on low tables. It’s amazing how much stuff is for sale everywhere you look.

By the mosque we saw a whole row of men on the ground on mats kneeling in front of other men who had old fashioned straight-edged razors. (Sorry these pictures aren’t very good.) They were getting their heads washed (soaped) and then shaved. The barbers had a small silver bowl of soapy water they’d dip into, then they’d massage the heads and shave them.

Our friend, Moussa outside the market, in the parking lot where there are so many beggars hoping for a handout:

This lady in the parking lot set up her shop in an abandoned van:

On the way out, we drove past the ju-ju or white/black magic vendors with their interesting wares–baboon heads, dried parrots, bones, horse heads, body parts, etc. These are used to make potions to solve every conceivable problem.

The markets here are fascinating. Everywhere you look, you see things you’ve probably never seen before. What an amazing place!

The Sheep and Cattle Markets of Bamako

Our next stop on our tour of Bamako was the cattle and the sheep markets. There is a huge enclosed area where they keep the cows and bulls. It was very full last time we passed by, but today it was pretty empty. The men told us the cows come in the afternoon–they hadn’t arrived yet today.

We parked the car across the street from a man stripping the entrails from a dead sheep to sell to a fellow on a motorcycle with his little daughter. The one man was pulling the guts from the dead sheep and stuffing them into a plastic bag the other man held. When everything was in the bag, the man motioned for his little girl to get on the back of the motorcycle and hold the sack. She didn’t look too happy about that.

We walked down the dirt road by the enclosed area for the cattle and it was full of sheep for sale. The people there were curious at seeing us there, but they seemed pleased we were interested. A couple of fellows led the way and showed us things.

The sheep were tied up in clusters by their vendors. They were all sizes–from huge with big horns to small. A typical goat sells for $25-30. Anounou said the small ones are more tender. They are especially eaten at holidays and for special family occasions like weddings and when a baby is born. If people can afford it, they buy a goat or sheep.

As we walked along the dirt road, there were fresh animal skins stretched out right there along the road. They were from animals killed today–still red with blood.

This one looked like a breeding bull:

Down the road a ways we came to a camel. It was old and dirty and so very skinny. Apparently they sell camels here too. He looked like he’d walked all the way from Morocco.

This fellow had just purchased this black goat and he got on his motorcycle and drove off with it on his lap.

What an amazing place! There are so many interesting facets to life in Bamako. We love it here!

As we drove away, more cows were arriving. This is life in Bamako.

Cemeteries and Burials in Bamako

On this Saturday morning, we planned a few hours to take Matt and Norbert around Bamako with our friend, Anounou, as our tour guide. This is Matt’s first time in Mali and we wanted to give him a feel of what life is like here.

Our first stop was the city cemetery. Because we had Anounou with us, he was able to talk to the keeper of the cemetery and he let us go into this sacred Muslim place. He taught us about how the burials take place here. We had originally planned to visit a different cemetery but Anounou said that one wasn’t safe–it was a place people sneak into at night and dig up bodies to take body parts and organs to sell for black magic.

This cemetery was huge. It’s all rock and dirt and the graves are not really marked very well. Sometimes the family will post a small sign that says “ici repose” (here lies) with a name and maybe a date on it.

Burials have to take place within 24 hours of the death. The body is not embalmed. They wrap the body in 3 pieces of cloth–one for the head, one for the body and one for the legs, then the body is put into the grave. Then the body is covered with a row of mud bricks before filling the grave with dirt (no boxes or coffins). The mud bricks are made right outside the cemetery walls–there were some men working to make them with sand, mud, straw and water. Here are some photos of how the bricks are placed over the body and how the bricks are made just outside the cemetery:

After 6 months, the keeper of the cemetery said that all that’s left of the body is the skull and the big arm and leg bones. The rest is all gone and they can bury a second body in the same grave. Families use the same graves if needed. There were no rows or order to the cemetery. If there’s an empty space, this keeper says you can use it. Families dig their own graves and fill them.

Some of the graves had a cement outline or a low tiled area like an open box above the ground around the grave (grave marker). Some of these grave marker boxes were filled with rocks, some with dirt. None were sealed or cemented over. All were accessible to the grave so taking a body out would be easy for a grave robber. No one guards the cemeteries at night. Anounou said the keeper at that other cemetery is in cahoots with the grave robbers– they probably give him some money to let them steal the body parts.

I kept thinking of the song about Ezekiel’ dream: “Dem bones, dem bones, dem dry bones. . . .” and wondered about places like this on resurrection morning. I also thought about Find and Grave and Billion Graves and all the information that is missing or unknown in places like this. The keeper said he started writing down the names of the people being buried here just a year ago. Until then, NO records were kept. Oh my. It made my Family History heart sad.

This is not a record keeping culture. Anounou’s father died and is buried in Liberia. He said his mother is buried in that other cemetery, but he said he wouldn’t even know how to find her grave today.

The keeper said they had one family preparing for a burial today–we could see them off a ways. He said there were 4 burials yesterday. This cemetery is owned by the city. It looked really full–there wasn’t much room between the graves and no empty spaces. The graves aren’t decorated. That’s against the religion. Just cement, stone, dirt, tile and some hand painted signs with names for some. We didn’t see anyone there visiting a grave. I get the feeling they don’t do much of that. It was all really very interesting.

These mounds of rocks are also graves:

The keeper said he is not paid to watch over the cemetery, he just does it. I noticed this donation box by the entrance. It was all I could do to not photograph and preserve what information we saw on some of the graves. The angels in heaven will have to help us do that someday.