Our Malian Neighborhood

We went out today to run a few errands in our neighborhood.  Here are some of the interesting things we saw.

The photo above is one of the many donkey carts driven by young boys to pick up trash.  Every morning early, they are out and about making the rounds.

This is the road we take to go to the supermarche each week, where we buy the few groceries we need.

There are no sidewalks here, rather most streets have open gutter/trenches where waste collects.

Here are some sheep for sale.

And here are “les têtes de vaches” or cow heads on the grill.  You can also buy the hooves.  The men were searing and scraping the hair off.

Firewood for sale:

This is where they sell coal for cooking stoves.

This is the front of a blacksmith’s shop.  The men behind the piles were busy forging, pounding and banging on all sorts of things, including cooking stoves, wheelbarrow and other repair jobs.

These motorbikes have a truck bed on the back, so they are 3-wheelers.  Today we passed one that had 2 Brahama bulls tied up in the back, feet in the air, heads hanging over the back end.  They were on their way to the market, still kicking. They were not very comfortable!

These are some household items, locally made.  Brooms, sweepers and calabash bowls.

This was my Most Exciting Find of the day:  a coco vendor!  My favorite food.  It’s really hard to find coconut here in Mali.  I learned today that coconut here is imported from Cote d’Ivoire.  These men sell pieces for pennies to people passing by.

When I asked the vendor if he’d sell me a few whole coconuts, he went to a nearby shop and returned with a big sack full of wet coconuts.  I bought 3 for 1,000 cfa.  What a deal!!

This road was paved with cobblestones.

A local hardware store specializing in cook stoves:

Boy on a bike:

More firewood and charcoal for sale.

A tanner drying skins:

These are drinking pots for people passing by.  If you need a drink, help yourself.  Every day this week is expected to reach 106 degrees here.  It’s hot and water is always a gift.

Of course, the produce is as delicious as it is colorful!

And the children are the most beautiful of all!

Some Time to Heal and Get Well

We’ve been taking things a little bit easy these last two weeks as John has been getting better.  We had the first week of spiraling downwards, and then this last week of gaining strength.  Doctor Soulemane came faithfully, twice a day for the last 7 days, administering the meds John needed to get well.  Last night was his last visit.  John will continue to take a few meds for another week, but no longer by injections or I.V. drip.  Yesterday we got the lab work back from a blood sample, and everything looks normal and good.

We are so very grateful for prayers that have been offered and answered and for this good young doctor who we’ve enjoyed visiting with every day.  He has been kind and so helpful.

We’ve felt the peace of this place these last 2 weeks.  We’ve been reading a lot and preparing for April Conference.   And we’ve enjoyed messages of love and concern from friends here and at home.   We feel your love and we are grateful.

Here is the view from our apartment last evening as the full moon came up.

And here we are today, on this Sabbath, the Sunday before Easter and General Conference.  It will be so nice to be back in church with our friends next week!~

Our Newest Bamako Branch Member!

Meet Amani Sekou Dembele!

Last weekend, at the exact time Pres Sekou was helping us find a doctor for John, his wife, Dina, was in the hospital in Accra having their first child, a beautiful little boy!  Dina is there with her mother for this first delivery.  It was just a year ago that Dina and Sekou were sealed to each other forever in the Accra Temple.  Now they have been blessed with this perfect gift.

Here’s a picture of Elder and Sister Kacher visiting Dina and her mother and sister in Accra.  This is so beautiful.  We are so thrilled for Dina and Sekou!

John’s Turn With COVID

On Thursday, 11 March, the day after we returned home to Bamako from Abidjan, John took a COVID test. We learned that the Mission President and his wife had just tested positive, and we’d just spent the day before we left helping them.

John’s symptoms included headache, fatigue, fever and body aching. For the next week, we stayed in the apartment, taking things easy, but John’s symptoms got worse, especially the fatigue. Gratefully he had no respiratory problems. By the next Friday, it was getting so bad, he could hardly do anything but rest. He collapsed 3 times during the week, passing out and falling to the floor without warning. He was weak and dizzy when he got up and so shaky and he looked like he’d aged 20 years.

By Friday evening, the 19th, he was not improving–he was sinking. I worried about his oxygen levels. We had no way to check them. We also had no thermometer and his fever continued. I’d been in contact with a couple of my book club friends at home, who alerted all of the others. They were also in contact with our kids. All were ready to intervene to get John to a hospital. Private panicky messages that night flew between my phone and theirs while John slept. I prayed through the night to know what to do. We live 9 flights up. We have no car. And John did NOT want to go to a hospital. “Tomorrow will be better,” was his standard response.

Here is the report I emailed to my friends Sunday, after that frightening Friday evening:

Hello Dear Book Club Friends!!

Several of you have asked today how John is doing and I thought I’d send Virginia an update she can forward to all of you. I’m not sure I’ve got a current email listing for everyone since I’ve been rather out of the loop.

We have good news here—it was just yesterday our dear Bamako Branch President, Sekou helped me find a COVID doctor who does house calls. I contacted Sekou yesterday morning after Virginia told me some of you were ready to book flights over to rescue us!!

Here’s what’s happened this week—in a medium-sized nutshell.

We were in Abidjan last week, finishing up there, working closely with the MP and his wife. They were feeling a little sick—sore throats, fatigue—but weren’t too worried about it. We’d taken negative Covid tests on a Saturday to fly back to Bamako on Tuesday. We spent Monday with the sick MP and wife at the office and they invited us to a send off dinner that evening at the mission home. We flew out the next morning for Bamako.

Tuesday John started feeling really fatigued. Weds we learned that the Bendixsens (MP) were feeling quite sick so they took a rapid response Covid test. Both Positive. Thursday John took a rapid test (we got them from a German Dr in Bamako) and he was also positive. I wasn’t too worried about getting Covid—I had it last month and had a very mild case, testing negative again after 2 weeks (which allowed us to fly from Bamako to Abidjan to Accra to take missionaries to the temple to be endowed). I’ve had 4 negative tests since then—one for each flight we’ve had.

So we sort of expected John’s case to be as simple as mine, but instead, every day got a little worse. I went to church without him last Sunday (Branch Conference with a visiting Authority) and came home to find John had blacked out and collapsed, here by himself. He was shaky and dizzy when he stood up the rest of the day. He just seemed to get more and more fatigued and he was sleeping a lot. I thought he’d turn the corner at any minute and start gaining strength. He passed out 2 more times this last week, crashing to the floor, sometimes hurting himself.

I guess I mentioned that to a couple of you—Virginia and Shelley, and of course to our kids, and by Friday, Adam, our medical student son, was privately messaging me to GET DAD TO A HOSPITAL NOW. We were most worried about his oxygen levels, thinking they were low and he really needed some urgent care. By Friday his mind was also starting to get a little fuzzy. He was really slow to respond, and his reasoning was off. For example, he didn’t want to eat his own leftovers from the day before because he was scared he might re-infect himself.

Well, getting him to a hospital here is easier said than done here. The main concern was that our German Dr in Bamako told that if you go to a hospital in Mali you won’t come out alive. I won’t go into a description of 3rd world hospitals here. The truth is you really don’t want to go there and be exposed to more than you came in with. So John was refusing any suggestion of medical help. We also live 9 flights up at the top of an apartment building and I could see no way of getting him down those stairs and into a dilapidated taxi to get him to a hospital. I also thought he’d turn the corner “any day now” and be fine again.

So by Friday night, I had Virginia planning how to life flight John out of here (well, almost) and our kids privately messaging me to get Dad to a hospital immediately. He was asleep in bed and I was praying to know what to do next. I decided to see how he was in the morning and then get him to a hospital somehow if I didn’t feel otherwise. I slept with an eye on him, making sure he was breathing through the night.

I woke early yesterday. He slept like he was drugged. Before even seeing how he was, I had a feeling to make a plan. I messaged our dear Malian friend, Anounou, who was in town for the weekend. He’s the field director of the Ouelessebougou Alliance (he is home in Bamako on weekends). He is John’s dear friend here and he has a car. I asked him if he could help me get John to a hospital. He was ready to drop everything and come.

Then I messaged our dear Branch President, Sekou, who is a 3rd year medical student (who’s wife was delivering their first child yesterday morning as we were messaging). I just wanted him to pray for us. As I told him what was happening, he said he knew a Doctor at a hospital here who had someone working for him who did home visits just for COVID patients. Wow, Perfect, I thought! So in a matter of minutes, he was able to make some calls and then he told me a doctor was on his way over to our apartment.

Anounou came over, the doctor came (a young single fellow) and for the next 3 hours, he worked with John, setting things up. We had to send Anounou to a pharmacy down the street to get a whole list of medications and medical stuff (syringes and IV stuff, etc.) The Dr spoke no English. Anounou helped us get what we weren’t understanding. By the end of his visit, we had an IV drip hanging from our light fixture. After 5 pokes and buggered veins, he found a good one and John was hooked up to the drip.

The home visits include 7 days of twice a day visits. The cost is about $450 USD. The pharmacy tab was about $200. John’s getting fluids, antibiotics, vitamins, blood thinner and something for nausea. I didn’t mention that his oxygen level was good. That was the first thing the Dr checked and his first words to us were, “He doesn’t have to go to the hospital!” Vitals were good. We could all see John was very dehydrated. His skin looked like an 80 year old man. (He’s also down to 150 lbs at 6’3” so he was looking really saggy.)

After day 2 now with the IV drip twice/day, he looks fully hydrated—better than BOTOX!!. He’s looking like a 66 yr old again! He’s also steady on his feet now. He’s had a fever for more than a week and that’s been much better too. He’s still really tired and he still takes a LONG nap every day and dozes off a lot in between naps and bed, but he’s already his old self, thinking clearly and I think he’s relieved that things are getting better.

I’ll tell you what came to me Friday night as I prayed after Virginia’s not-so-calm messages from all of you. A memory came to my mind that I’ve not thought of in a long long time. It was of our son, Aaron at 6 months in Dec 1995. It was on another Friday afternoon, on the evening of our ward Christmas party. John was at the church setting up. I was at home with Aaron, after a long day of selling DK books. Aaron was feeling sick, but he slept through the whole day in his car seat at my side. I remember thinking what a good baby he was, not to fuss. By Friday afternoon, I had a feeling to take him to the doctor, just to be sure, because the weekend was coming. I’m not one to run to a doctor for any little thing, but I felt I should go. The doctor attending that early evening was Merino Robins, Adam’s wife’s grandpa. He took one look at Aaron and checked his blood saturation. It was dangerously low. He immediately dug a big needle into little Aaron’s wrist to find a vein to pump something into him because he was not just a mild-mannered baby, he was on the verge of death. Aaron didn’t even flinch when he jabbed into his wrist (again, I’m thinking, what a good baby). When Aaron didn’t even flinch, Dr Robins could see he was barely responsive and he called for the Life Flight helicopter to come NOW and fly him to SLC for emergency care. Aaron had RSV. We almost lost him. He wasn’t getting oxygen and his body was giving out. I raced home to get John and we drove FAST to SLC, to Primary Children’s where Aaron was put in ICU for the next week. He pulled through it, but he wouldn’t have without medical care.

Well, that was the picture in my mind Friday night, and it was still there, strong and vivid yesterday morning when I woke and started making phone calls. My feeling was that without medical help, John might have quietly slipped beyond a point of no return. Every day he was weaker. He’s had no breathing trouble at all, but his body was giving out, quietly and gradually while I was thinking what a good boy he was at resting.

SO, thanks to all of you for speaking up and speaking out and pushing Virginia to urge me to take action. She and our kids were yelling at me from afar to DO SOMETHING NOW. I might not have otherwise because John was so dead set against it.

It’s hard to believe that that was just Yesterday. There’s a remarkable difference today and we see nothing but improvement from here on out. THANK YOU for your prayers and for your faith. It’s amazing to be so far away and to feel so close.

The doctor was just here. He’ll be back in the morning, checking on things. We are all feeling very very relieved.

Prayers have been answered.

Thanks to each of you for chipping in with your petitions.

Love from Ann in Bamako

Our young Doctor Souleymane Traore has been here morning and night every day this week. He calls John “Jean veiux” or “Jean, Jean américain” (John the old, or John, John the American). He has taken real good care of John. He’s the same age as our medical student son, Adam. Dr Souleymane is one of only a couple of COVID doctors who make house calls everyday. He works from sun up until after sundown visiting patients.

John is receiving a treatment that includes hydration solution with vitamins C and B, two different antibiotics, a blood thinner (for the IV)a steroid, and acetaminophen for the fever and pain relief. The goal has been to restore his strength and energy. It has worked.

Tomorrow will be Friday again, a week since the panicky messages flew into my phone late at night. This morning the doctor told us John is no longer contagious. He also told us there were 103 new cases of COVID in Bamako yesterday. Like John, those who qualify to receive treatment at home are treated at home. The numbers here are beginning to rise.

This morning we ventured out. On the left is our apartment building. We live on the top floor with the big deck. Things are looking up around here. We hope to be closer to full speed ahead in another week!

We’re grateful for the many who have prayed for John’s recovery. We consider it the greatest of all Gifts!

A Beautiful Baptism in Bamako!

Today after our church meetings, we prepared for a baptismal service here at our Bamako Branch.  Elder Bah and Elder Koffi have been teaching Josephine, her 2 grown daughters, Coumba and Mariam and the oldest granddaughter, Sitan.

Everyone stayed for this glorious occasion.

What a beautiful family.

These dear sisters are now the newest members of our Bamako Branch.  They live in N’gomi, but hope to be able to attend in Bamako.

After the baptisms, Elder Kacher congratulated them and we all welcomed them to our church family.

Then it was time to start saying good bye to our friends and visitors.

Beautiful youth!

After most had departed for home, Elder Kacher met with the priesthood leaders.  They had organized all the ministering assignments in each of the groups.  They discussed what it means to minister and how to do the interviews. Elder Kacher showed them some videos contained in the stake ministering and assessment training and then he then gave them each a priesthood blessing.

While that was going on, our new members had some lunch!

 

There was one final meeting with Elder Bah and Elder Koffi, President Sekou and me where we talked about all that happened today and made some plans for the missionary work in our areas.

Elder Kacher also gave the Elders and President Sekou  priesthood blessings.  What a grand day it’s been today in Bamako!  I’m so grateful we get to be here participating!  It was hard for John not to be here with us.  We are all praying he and the Bendixsens will recover quickly from their COVID symptoms.

Today we glimpsed more of the future of the Church here in Mali.  What a beautiful sight!

Bamako Branch Conference with Elder Kacher

We arrived at the church early this morning to prepare for our Branch Conference with Elder Kacher.  The Elders had prepared the room, setting up every single chair available and they were preparing for the sacrament.

The first families started arriving at about 8:30 for our 9:30 meeting.

This tall cute girl is Sitan.  Today after church she will be baptized with her mother, her aunt and her grandmother.  These are her siblings and cousins.

As I visited with them before church, learning their names, it wasn’t long before they discovered my hair and one by one they snuck up behind me to touch it.  It was a wonder to them.

We had 3 mini-buses come in today from our 3 outlying areas:  the chicken farm, Diatoula and Ngomi/Banconi.

As we waited for more to arrive, our priesthood leaders met with Elder Kacher for a few minutes to discuss their responsibilities and what would happen today.

Francois Cissoko, Elder Kacher, Chiaka Traore, Trinita Agban Kossi (Biggo), Sekou Dembele and Ibrahima Togola

Here are some of the children reverently waiting for the meeting to begin.

We had a great meeting.  Our speakers were Pres Sekou, Valerie (our RS President) and Chiaka Traore from Banconi, and then Elder Kacher.  Sekou shared his wonderful testimony and encouraged all of us to be strong and faithful.  Valerie gave a talk about respecting the Sabbath day.  Chiaka shared his testimony.  Elder Kacher was our concluding speaker.  He reviewed the 4 things he talked about at the chicken farm yesterday: Pray individually and with your families, Study the scriptures individually and with your families, pay an honest tithing, and do the ministering we’ve been asked to do–look after each other.  His advice and counsel was gentle and kind.  It was nice to have him here.

Here are a few pictures taken after the meeting.  We had 46 members and 51 non-members here today.  About 30-35 were adults.

Elder Kacher and Sekou taught a special class for all the youth.  There were about 45 in the class, mostly non-members.  They explained the youth program and gave everyone the youth booklet.  Elder Kacher also gave each one a gold USD coin as a souvenir, encouraging them to save for their futures and missions.

I helped with the 24 children who came to Primary.  Francois helped to translate the lesson about Joseph Smith and prayer into Bambara.  The children had such good answers when we talked about the things they pray for and the answers they’ve received after praying.  These are bright good children.  We are also learning to sing “A Child’s Prayer.”  They especially love the second verse:

Prie, il est là.  (Pray, He is there.)
Parle, il t’écoute.  (Speak, he is listening to you.)
Toi, son enfant, tu sens son amour.  (You are His child, you feel his love.)
Car il t’entend.   (Because He hears you)
Il dit que les enfants sont les plus grands au royaume des cieux.  (He says that the children are the greatest in the kingdom of heaven.)

We have finally received the new Friend magazine here!  The children and youth love these magazines.

 

After the meetings we prepared for the baptism.  Here are Rose’s daughters and her brother:

These beautiful triplets are Julien Dossou’s sisters from Banconi.

Desiree is studying his new Youth booklet.

And here is Biggo, cleaning the sacrament trays as we prepared for the baptism.  What a wonderful day so far.  Things only got better!

Elder Kacher’s Saturday Visits

These are some of the pictures Elder Kacher shared with me from their visits today in our outlying areas.  Their first stop was at the chicken farm where they met with Dramane and our few members there.

Elder Kacher challenged them to do 4 things to progress:  1.) Pray individually and with their families.  2.) Study the scriptures individually and with your families, ideally using the Come Follow Me manual.  3.) Pay an honest tithe.  4.)  Organize the members for ministering to each other and then do it.

Elder Kacher told them that if they did these four things that in 3 months they could be strong enough to become a branch and 3 months after becoming a branch they could be considered for finding a place to meet.

Next they went to Diatoula, where they met in the school. The school director, village chief and director of education all came along with about 150 beautiful children.  Elder Kacher reported that after some introductions and a few words most of the children left and they had a little meeting. The village leaders stayed for it. At the end, the director of education asked for our help with a well and with some needed repairs in the school.

We’ll follow up with their requests and needs and see what we can do to help.

The next stop was across town and beyond in Binabougou, where they met with Frere Chiaka and his little group.  About 200 adults, youth and children from the village greeted them under the mango trees.

The Elders did a nice job teaching them and explained who we are. President Sekou discussed similarities between our religions and Elder Kacher talked about eternal families.  This village is always excited when Americans come.  They are hopeful for any aid we might offer.  We hope there will be some who listen to our message.

Their final stop  was in Banconi at Rose’s compound.  The 3 women who will be baptized tomorrow along with one of their young daughters were also there.   These 3 women are a mother,  her 2 daughters and her oldest  granddaughter.  We are happy for the changes they are making.

They had a full day and traveled many miles on bumpy dirt roads to see these friends.  Elder Kacher estimated they saw and were greeted by 300-400 people!  It’s nice to have him here, helping us to move our missionary work forward.

Elder Kacher Arrives for a Weekend in Mali

Elder Larry Kacher arrived in Bamako this afternoon.  Bendixsens had planned to come too, but they stayed home to isolate with their positive COVID results.  John stayed upstairs in our apartment this evening doing the same, but I got to go down to our favorite local restaurant (in our building) to have dinner with Sekou, the Elders and Elder Kacher.

Elder Bah and Elder Koffi loved their fried chicken and pizza and we all loved discussing our plans for the weekend visits and meetings.

Elder Kacher was accompanied by George Quaye from Accra, who works for Church Security.  He helped keep an eye on things to make sure everyone was safe.

After dinner we went into the parking structure of our apartment building where our friend came to administer COVID tests for Elder Kacher and George so they would be cleared to fly back to Accra on Sunday evening.

Tomorrow I’ll stay with John while he battles COVID and these friends will tour all of our mission areas here–the Chicken Farm, Diatoula, Binabougou and Banconi.  It will be a great day and we are sad to miss it.  Sunday we’ll have our Branch Conference here in Bamako with everyone coming in for the meetings.  We’ve been looking forward to this for a long time.

COVID Strikes Again–It’s John’s Turn

Well, it’s John’s turn for COVID.  We learned this morning that both Pres & Sis Bendixsen have COVID.  John’s been having the same symptoms the last day or so–fatigue, dry cough, slight fever (or is it just so hot here?), body aches.  Today he took a rapid response test and it confirmed our suspicions.

The sad news is the Elder Kacher and the Bendixsens were supposed to fly to Bamako tomorrow to spend a busy weekend here, visiting the members and all of our areas.  Bendixsens will stay in Abidjan.  Elder Kacher will come.  We will isolate in our apartment.  It’s too bad.  We have so much to share about the work here.  C’est la vie.

Dyeing Fabric the Malian Way

This afternoon I noticed some women across a busy street working with fabric.  They had big caldrons over fires and pots and buckets with fabric cooking and soaking.  I crossed the street to take a closer look to watch their process of dyeing fabric.

The women weren’t too excited about having their faces in the photos, but they let me take a few pictures of what they were doing.  It was hot hard work.  They’d prepared the fabric pieces by twisting and tying them with twine like we do to make tie-dye.   These tied pieces looked like big spiders!

These “spiders” were put into cooking pots of hot dye that looked like witch’s brew cooking over a fire.  The women working with those pots wore thick long gloves to protect their hands and arms as they stirred the fabric in the hot dye.

Then, after they cooled a bit, one of the ladies took a razor blade and cut all the twine, unfolding the pieces of fabric to reveal the patterns.  It was amazing to see the patterns exposed.

After opening up the fabric, it was washed and rinsed in buckets of soapy and then clear water.

Here’s a good look at their working area:

After the fabric pieces were washed and rinsed, they were spread out on the dirt by the side of the road to dry.

I’ve been told that this type of fabric is particular to Mali–it’s more stiff and shiny than other African fabrics, a specialty here.  It was fascinating to watch these women hard at work.